Margate Flying

As the Kalahari Bundu Bash was cancelled for the 3rd year in a row because of a lack of registrations we - ie. Jeff and André decided to do something else instead. Last year they (Robbie, André and Jeff) flew down to Margate in their Bantams. This year André, Jeff and I went again.

We left early Tuesday morning, heading for the Umkomaas River mouth. Just as we got over the very broken ground of the Umkomaas valley Durban tower called us on the radio telling us we were "encroaching on the Durban TMA". André told them we were aware of the TMA boundary but were outside and below it, heading for the coast at the Umkomaas mouth. We were told to descend to 2500 feet which took us right into the Umkomaas valley making finding a safe landing spot in a hurry if the engine failed very difficult. But we supposed it was just the air traffic controller doing his job because he had a 737 approaching to land.

Once we reached the coast we flew about 1000ft above the beach to Margate, then turned inland to the airport. André has a cousin who owns a holiday penthouse in a block of flats on the beach at Margate. We also had access to his car, but they couldn't get it started, so we hired a car for the 3 days we were there.

The next morning, we all went flying south along the Wild Coast to spot sardines which were making their annual migration up the coast. They had already reached Ramsgate, and there were more further south. I took some aerial video footage and was amazed to see the sharks swimming around in the shoals, particularly in those right on the beach where people were catching the sardines!!! They had no idea sharks were just a few metres from them! André let me fly the plane back to Margate. It's a very easy plane to handle, must easier than the trike. All the steep turns while I was filming left me feeling a bit airsick, so I stayed at the airport while Jeff took his mom for her flight.
I had contacted a colleague at work to tell her about the sardines, and her and cameraman were already on their way down to do a news piece for that night. They came to the airport to collect my tape with the aerial shots on it. Later André and Jeff flew further down the WIld Coast and saw many more huge shoals of sardines and thousands of sharks after them. I was still feeling a bit sick, so I stayed at the airport. Later that afternoon we asked a young pilot to take us for a ride in the twin engine Cessna he was flying for aerial surveys. It had an enormous Leica camera mounted in the floor. I have never seen a camera so huge, about half a metre square with another large memory cabinet for storing the digital photos. Because it was a company plane, he only took us for a 12 minute flip, which was enough, just for the experience. It was so funny how we got the ride... André asked in a loud voice who the pilot was who was flying the Cessna parked on the apron at the airport. And as there was only one other person on the deck with us, he said he was. André then just asked him to take us for a flip. I don't think he could say no. We had also asked a helicopter pilot for a ride they day before. He was checking Eskom power lines and said he'd take us when he returned form the inspection. We waited on the deck until the sun set, but we didn't see him again!
During Thursday night a south wester buster came up and we were worried we wouldn't be able to fly back to Grass Roots in the morning... well not that worried!! It subsided by day break so we had a nice light tail wind home.
Back at Grass Roots we washed the planes and got ready for our next adventure - the annual Battlefields Fly-in at Dundee.

Sani Pass Hike in the Drakensberg

“Why did you walk up the pass?” was the question asked by the young Lesotho border post official when I filled in my entry permit at the top of Sani Pass.

“Because I’ve driven up many times before and this time I wanted to do it on foot.” was my simple reply, but the look on this man’s face indicated that I was perhaps daft. He wasn’t the only one who thought that. Somebody passing us on the way up called out their 4X4 that they had "pills" we could take to rid us of this madness.

Like many people from KwaZulu-Natal I’ve always been drawn to the Berg. I’ve hiked the foothills in the Underberg district (and other sections) many times with new residents of Underberg Bill and Lydia Bailey and our friends. We’ve slept in caves, done the Giant’s Cup trail and camped at Cobham. I was visiting them about a month ago and saw the Sani hike on their hiking calendar and decided that this was one of those “have-to-do” things in my life.

And so I joined a group of enthusiastic hikers on what turned out to be a very memorable hike. The weather was kind to us, with a bit of mist as we set off from the South African border post. The lower section of the road is relatively easy, and the steady incline gradually eases one into the walk. Only at the hairpin bends in the upper reaches of the pass does the pace become slow with a bit of a rest at the bend, followed by gradually longer rests at the remaining corners. It becomes a matter of one foot in front of the other until one reaches the crest of the last straight at the top - 2874 metres (9400 ft) above sea level.

Giant's Cup or Hodgson's Peaks
 from Jeff's microlight

After border formalities were over we headed for Sani Top Chalet for a well deserved drink and lunch. Our overnight accommodation was at Backpackers and was simple but very comfortable in a very well converted old trading store building about 100 metres from Sani Top Chalet. I opted to remain there for a shower and a sleep while the others headed off to Black Mountain for some more exploring, by vehicle, not on foot. While they were out one of those sudden Berg storms broke over Backpackers. The others commented on the huge dark clouds and beautiful rainbow they saw from Black Mountain Pass.

The sun greeted Sani Top on a cloud-free and surprisingly mild morning. There was much scurrying around as Sue our leader had planned a hike to Hodgson’s Peaks of the Giant's Cup before we descended from Sani later in the afternoon. We sloshed through very wet ground across the wide valley behind the escarpment on the way to Hodgson’s. Then the land began to rise and the legs took strain again. A shepherd with an oil tin guitar came past playing “The Lesotho Song”. Whenever I hear one of the Basotho’s playing a guitar it seems to be the same song – an eventually monotonous five or six notes after hearing it for five minutes as he stopped to pose for photographs. I don’t think people should offer money for doing that. In my opinion that action may at some future time have a possible negative reaction. Think about it.

Anyway, my opinions out the way, we reached the crest of the saddle and beheld the breathtaking view of the valley dominated on the horizon by the north and south Hodgson’s Peaks. Our intention was to climb the south peak first (the right peak in the pic alongside) then do the north peak (left in pic). We walked on with the sound of sheep bells in the valley below. Stopping and looking down into South Africa  at the Masubasuba Pass was inevitable. This pass by the way which goes down between the two peaks, is said to be one of the major dagga routes into South Africa. This was another breathtaking view which was only slightly spoiled by low cloud in the Polela valley below and rapidly rising mist at our level. Sani Pass is gentle compared to this foot path descending down the mountain side, although I wouldn’t mind giving it a go some day.

We pressed on up the very steep slope of the south peak, each step harder than the preceding one because of the altitude - we were just over 3000 metres or 9800 ft here) and stopped for breakfast just below the final rocky transverse to the top. It was warmer in the lee of the mountain and the rest felt so good that I almost decided to skip the final assault on the summit. Perhaps I did need those "pills" that passer-by offered! No… when reaching the top and looking back over one of the flattest parts of Lesotho and seeing as far south as Drakensberg Gardens and Bushman’s Nek it was all worth while. The icy wind had suddenly ceased and the mist rising up the face of the escarpment was amazing to see.

After soaking in this beautiful sight for a while we headed for the very precarious little chimney gully and a rather exposed climb down off the 3 256 metre south peak and head for the slightly lower 3 244 north peak of the Giant’s Cup. If one thought the ascent was hard, the descent took its toll on the knees and quads.

The mist was rolling in quickly now around the north peak, so a unanimous decision was made to leave it for some other time. Quite honestly, I don’t think my legs would have liked to climb up another mountain, so we headed for the saddle and back into the valley of one of the tributaries of the Sani River which would lead back to the lodge.

Walking back, one of our party, an incredibly fit 82 year old man took a tumble off a rock and remarkably the only damages were his ego and a few cuts and grazes on his arms and legs. This turned into a very welcome lunch stop while 2 IC Ian attended to his wounds.

As we arrived back at the border post a group of leaderless (or so it seemed) Belgian  tourists with day packs were eagerly, and in our opinion, foolishly, heading off in the direction from which we’d just come. It was already past midday with a lot of mist rolling over the edge onto the Sani plateau. This is how incidents happen in the mountains.

After another well deserved supping in the pub at Sani Top Chalet we decided that the 3 hour walk down the pass would also be left for another time. Nobody admitted it, but I think we were all too exhausted.

When driving down the pass I’m always amazed at the engineering feat that went into building the road all those years ago when David Alexander first took supplies up by truck to Mokhotlong in Lesotho, and wonder what huge construction would be necessary when they eventually get round to tarring the road as is proposed. Whether it be good or bad is debatable, but the erosion will have to be curbed very soon before it all washes away and the mountains once again becomes an impenetrable barrier of spears.
Update 2016: The tarring of the pass road has stopped at the Sani Pass Hotel for now.

Saturday, 9 February

It's been a while since I posted here.

This is the view from my window today. Overcast but warm.

I've started to settle back into life at home now, which hasn't been easy. The daily load shedding power cuts have sort of become nothing to be too concerned about and the public seems to be getting used to them, although this week there have been none, so obviously the demand for electricity has been less. Eskom and municipalities have started to install switching devices in homes which can shut off the geysers. A bit of an intrusion I feel, but they seem to think that will reduce the use of electricity. Eskom will be able to send a pulse down the line which the unit will receive and activate the geyser shut off switch. Big Brother???? I only switch my geyser on about an hour before I take a shower and switch it off again later. (Update: this scheme didn't seem to take off)

An interesting situation at Durban airport last week. The tow bar broke on the aircraft tow vehicle, and to get the plane out the parking bay, about 12 ground crew pushed the SAA Airbus back.

Someone sent me this the other day...
National Party = White Power
ANC = Black Power
NOW = NO POWER!!!!!!!!

(Credit to My Space Blog at Mweb)

Sunday, 20 January 2008

You know you're in Africa... .

...when electricity load shedding (I still don't understand the purpose) happens on a daily basis and will do so for about 8 years until new power stations are built. According to Durban City Manager if Eskom decided to cut the power for 2 weeks we won't have electricity for 2 weeks. I would have thought this would have a negative impact on the economy, but Durban Chamber of Commerce Chief Executive Officer, Prof. Bonke Dumisa said "(power cuts) will not affect the economy substantially because Eskom has been pro-active in alerting the public as to when there will be power cuts. Business owners will have adequate time to prepare themselves..." (Quote from Forest Express newspaper, 18 January 2008) Hmmm.

...when your neighbour tells you the people next door who moved in about a month ago have had 2 burglaries. The first was about a week after they moved in, and they ran away when disturbed. The second was about 2 weeks ago when the wheels of both their luxury cars parked outside the garage were removed. They even propped the cars up on tree stumps from newly felled pine trees.

Oh Canada!

I must just add something funny from the same article in the Forest Express newspaper about the power cuts: "His (Eskom spokesperson) opinion was backed up by eThekweni electricity department which said ordinary faults sometimes occurred at the same time as the load shedding, as well as by the city's Municipal Manager, Mike Sutcliffe."(Sorry Express reporters, but this read as if Mike Sutcliffe was also a cause of power cuts.)

Anyway enough. I contacted my relations in Canada on Google Talk this afternoon. The wintry weather's returned with a vengeance. The view from the lounge window and a snow-covered tree. It does have a beauty all of its own though.

Saturday, 19 January 2008

The flight from Heathrow took off almost an hour late because of the crashed 777 at the end of one of the two runways. We had to slot in between landing aircraft on the north runway. Our pilot told us we'd probably catch up time en route because of the jet stream over Europe, and in fact we got to Johannesburg exactly on time the next morning.
I realised I couldn't waste time getting my connecting flight because I still had to go through passport control and check in. I managed to get to the plane door while people were still getting their bags and things. I raced ahead through the confusion at Jhb airport to passport control where the woman at the desk was a bit confused about the flight I was going on, she thought Canada... er... back in SA you know... After I explained I had COME from Canada and Heathrow in London she stamped my passport and told me I had come to the wrong section, and I should proceed to the correct section and pass through permit holders and diplomats entrance and not queue with the other passengers as she'd already stamped my book. Ok I was pleased about that as I could get moving again. Another passenger and his wife from Germany I think, was also concerned about his connecting flight to George which was boarding in about 15 minutes. He said he'd follow me. I explained I had already gone through the entry process and he had to queue with the other hundred or so passengers. I left him with a look of panic and despair on his face, and ran to the domestic terminal which is only accessible by leaving the international terminal and going outside for about 200 metres because of on-going build alterations. I ran! Then it was up about 3 floors to the check in desks. I got through fairly quickly and went to the departure gates and couldn't find my one as it wasn't clear on the boarding pass. I found what I thought was my gate which was actually the flight boarding to George and told the attendant there were people still in immigration wanting to catch the flight. He thanked me for informing him but didn't think the flight would be held that long. Well, I tried. The worst was they'd go on standby for a later one.

In the meantime my flight was about half an hour later at another gate upstairs.... aaaaaagh!

The approach to Durban was the most spectacular I'd ever had. Unfortunately my camera wasn't at hand to take a picture. We arrived at the coast way north of the Umgeni River and flew about 3 km out to sea, did a downwind leg at about 2000ft along the coast, still quite far out, then turned very low over part of Umbogintwini, I heard the throttle open quite a bit as we turned onto a rather short final, with the ground very close!!! Quite interesting!

I think my brown suitcases should go back to the Goodwill Store in Canada where they came from as I think they're jinxed. They didn't arrive on my flight. I wondered where on Earth they had gone. I found out from the Baggage Desk they were in Johannesburg because I never collected them there as I didn't go through customs!!! A woman at the desk piped up that we were told on the plane before we got out that we had to collect our luggage. I said this was not the case. Her next comment really p'd me off. She said there were signboards at the airport. I told her that Jhb airport is such a mess with building alterations and there was no such sign. That kept her quiet! In the mean time the guy attending to me gave me a form to fill in an said my bags would be on the 13:20 flight which was about 3 hours from when I arrived.

Leon took me home and I would return to the airport myself as they wouldn't deliver to my home because they didn't loose the baggage, I had not collected them. OK, OK! Well to cut a long story short I got my 2 suitcases later, and even complimented the old bat at the desk for remembering my name.

Friday, 18 January 2008

A different view from my window today...

Big Ben at just after 8:30 this morning.

We got to the airport at about 3:30 pm which gave me plenty of time to say a quick and tearless goodbye outside the airport and get settled in the departure lounge. Only after the plane was airborne did I shed a farewell tear or two, and I’m sure my sister did the same in the car leaving the airport. By the way I couldn't believe my luck, the seat next to me was not occupied so I could lie down across 2 seats, which is a first for me. The 6 hour flight across the Atlantic seemed shorter because they woke us up at about 4 am GMT for breakfast, so I only got about 2 hours of dozing, but better than nothing.

I arrived at Heathrow, London at about 6:25 am local time, checked one of my bags in for safe keeping and took the tube into the centre of London. I emerged at Westminster Pier to rain and temp of about 10°C. I took some pics of Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament, bought a ham roll and some coffee at a shop opposite the clock tower and stood out of the rain to eat it. It was too warm inside to sit there!

Because of the rain I felt there was no point in hanging around or going anywhere, so I caught the tube back to the airport. I read in one of the papers left on the tube that a British Airways aircraft had crashed at Heathrow last night. A Boeing 777 was on final approach and lost power about 500 feet above the ground. The plane crashed 16 metres inside the airport perimeter fence, ripping the underbelly open, damaging both wings and 2 wheel units were ripped off. None of the 136 passengers were seriously injured. Officials aren’t sure what caused the loss of power.

I’m sitting at the airport now entering this log. After lunch I found a place I could have 40 winks and now feel quite refreshed and ready for the next 12 hour flight to Joburg.
Not holding my breath about vacant seats though!

I don’t think there’s anything more to add here for the time being except to say thank you to my sister, her husband and two delightful boys for the wonderful time I spent with you. I love you all very much.XXXX

Thursday, 17 January 2008

The view from the lounge window on this my last day in Canada on this trip. As usual it's been a wonderful time, being with my family, meeting new people especially the Hiller's and the Hind's. We spoke about South Africa, and we gave the negative views but more importantly the positive ones. I found it quite amazing how many people I had spoken to knew someone or knew of someone who was either South African or had been to South Africa. Africa is too far away from Canada for Canadians to visit for a vacation, preferring the southern American states, particularly Florida and South Carolina and the Caribbean.

My bags are packed and I'm ready to go.

See you all again next time.